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The connection between Mallorca, Sicily and Calabria is well known. Incorporation and Christianization of Mallorca in 1229 into the Crown of Aragon was the beginning of its Mediterranean expansion. Sicily became part of the Aragonian Empire in 1302, Kingdom of Naples – 1442. As a result, we got ‘Nduja and Sobrasada: products of one root, but with different expressions.
Since the day I’ve opened Jeffrey Weiss’ book on Spanish Charcuterie – and I got it on the week when it was published – I wanted to make Sobrasada in the style of Mallorca. There is something alluring in this Mediterranean spreadable sausage…Weiss notes that “Sobrasada de Mallorca” is banned for export to the U.S: our dutiful government treats this gastronomical wonder of Europe as a major threat to our security alongside with ISIS, Snowden, and Roman Polanski. Instead of proper Old World charcuterie I’d prefer to ban half of the Congress when they’re trying to return back home after the paid-by-the-lobbyists weekend of golf in Scotland. But that’s another topic…
So, I’ve finally made some Sobrasada. From beginning to the end, it took four months and four days. Texturally, the Sobresada indeed reminds its Calabrian cousin n’duja, but taste is different. Plus, I’d take the Weiss advice and eat it just like they do in Majorca: drizzle with honey. With honey and without – it is completely different product. Honey creates a great balance and a sophisticated taste. Also, I learned to add honey generously: more than you see on my pictures.
Meats: 30% neck; 30% belly (Weiss has jowl); 40% fat. All pork; total weight 7034gr. The process: neck and belly (already covered and kept in fridge for some time with 2.5% sea salt (Weiss has 2.8%), 0.3% dextrose, 0.3% sugar, 0.25% cure#2) went through 8mm (Weiss has 9.5) grinder, then 5mm (6 by the book). Fat – 8mm and then 2mm (3 by the book). In a mixing bowl, combined 350ml dry white wine, 6% pimento dulce ( I used Pimenton de la Vera), 0.3% grounded BP, and made a slurry. Mixed and “worked” the meats, adding the slurry and T-SPX cultures. Then I let it ferment overnight in a bowl and staffed into 145mm fibrous casings; fermented in casings for two more days; in the “curing chamber” until the total weight loss – 40%.
Notes for the future: to make it more spreadable, add more fat. After trying “by the book,” maybe attempt to make one with belly alone with some addition of soft fat. I really do not want to stop at 35% loss, but keep it in chamber not less than 4 months.
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